Friday, July 11, 2014

June 2014

June's update was delayed...  Hurricane Arthur coming through up-ended the schedule.  No trouble...  With five 100lb anchors set on 3/4 nylon and a row of taylor made fenders Noel weathered the storm. The eye of the storm passed over us, and I went down to make sure everything was still there. 

We've since been painting and cleaning up the engine room, now that the walking surfaces are in place over the framing, and the engines are set back on their bedding. 

Another thing to point out that you can barely see in the pictures, is the addition of limber holes to the floor timbers.  Anyone that has bored 1 1/4 holes with a right angle drill through 4 inches of fir, will understand that this is a a celebratory paragraph.  

We pulled off all the blue foam boards that had been protecting the Awlgrip paint work from damage.  I felt like a kid at Christmas seeing all that shiny paint for the first time in a while...

Since these pictures were taken, we've moved the fuel tanks up to the engine room bulkhead one on each side of the green ladder.  This will keep the boat in her current trim when she takes on fuel...  and give us a bit more access to the shaft alleys the next time we haul up.  The talk is dripless stuffing boxes!   

Thursday, May 8, 2014

April 2014

March, involved lots of clamp boards... lots of sanding... and lots of painting.

Short sentence, lots of hours.  We faired out and slicked out the inside surface of the planking above the waterline so she would be easy to maintain in the future.  This is the first coat.  The paint is a pre catalyzed water based epoxy from Sherwin Williams, which is one of the few that is both tough and tolerable in a confined space.  The fumes of and toxicity of most other products make it difficult to do an engine room without major forced ventilation which we are not set up for.  

Sunday, March 16, 2014

Out of Sequence...

It has come to my attention, that this blog has been neglected.

 Last Fall:

We built a raised area in the pilot house, and hung bead board under the front windows, and built a helm station.
Jim Bircher built an adapter for us to go from the diameter of the wooden wheels hub, to the hydraulic steering pump.  We wanted everything strong, so it has a shoulder and pillow block bearing support with a variety of shaft collars.  Steering stations shouldn't move.


Sanding work continues...

We are now to the putty stage.  When working in the timber stage, pictures don't really show that anything happens until the fiberglass goes on.  With putty and paint, everything looks like things happen faster.

The Pink stuff is Awlgrip Awlfair.  It is an epoxy based fairing filler, that will hide the weave of the fiberglass cloth.  The plan is to take it to 80 grit finish, let everything sit for 2 weeks and then paint with Interlux Bilgecote.  It is a polyester enamel that is designed and intended for engine rooms and bilges.  It doesn't always like fresh epoxy... hence the waiting period.  We'll then slide the engines back into place and fiberglass the runners where they are sitting, and blend everything together. 

  The two engines that are still in the engine room with us while the work is going on. 

Wednesday, March 12, 2014

March 2014

Februrary was a rough month to do much...  Snow storm after snow storm, and for some reason every one hit during the work week.  We've had some electrical issues and lost one leg of our 240 on the dock as well... minor set backs, but progress goes on. 

We finished building the engine bedding up to its full size, fiberglassed, sanded, and begun applying fairing putty.  What you don't see are the 60 1/2 inch stainless allthread rods through bolted inside every other frame bay.  The polka-dots on the top surface show their location.  We had to laminate this whole area without the use of screws, on account of the angle required to be cut to receive the engines.  Pictures before fiberglassing are on the other camera...  Soon!  I wanted to capture this stage, before everything is slick and shiny. 

This is what 1200 board feet of Douglass fir, and 15 gallons of epoxy looks like.  We will finish painting the engine bedding, move the engines back in their position and then do the same work to the area they are currently setting.  The salt treated 6x6's they are sitting on will be removed.  The glass overlays them. 

I left the bucket in place, to show scale... It's a gallon and a half bucket.  I kid... it is a 5 gallon. The engine bedding is made of full width 2x6's laminated one after the next 14 inches tall at the thickest and tabbed into the floor timbers as well as bulkheads.  It is 20 feet from where I am standing to the second bulkhead (wall) you see. 

We widened the opening, so that we can pull the fuel tanks forward.  The tanks are sitting in the position that the 1960's vintage were when we replaced them.  We ran the figures.  The center of gravity of the boat is 7 feet ahead of the engines.  The original tanks from 1942 were forward of the engine room bulkhead, in what is now the master stateroom.  The closer to her C.G. we can get the fuel tanks, the more she will take the weight without rotating her stern down.  The thought process:  The more parallel we can keep the waterline to the bottom of the boat, the lower the skin friction will be... the lower the fuel burn!    Strange world where the location of your fuel tanks impacts your fuel economy. 


Sunday, January 26, 2014

January 2014

Since the last update, we've moved work back into the engine room.  There hasn't been much to look at, or get a camera to focus on until now...  Mainly dust! 

The original steel engine bedding needed to be removed, for the last few frames and floor timbers to be replaced directly under the engine.  We decided not to cut a hole in the roof, and deck, and not to hire a crane to pull the engines out of the boat.  So, we moved them.  (That sounded so simple...)  

In order to do that, we built enough structure in the deck to carry the 3,500lb engines, hoisted them up and built a flat area ahead of them.  This involved carting some 18 foot long 6x6's down the dock, and through bolting eye bolts and backing plates above the engines every few feet...  Along with a thousand board feet of douglass fir 2x6's in varying lengths to replace the engine bedding.  There is a fair bit going on in the upper cabin at the moment, watch your step!  Only one chain hoist was sacrificed... 

We also had to build the wooden engine bedding, ahead of the motors... before we moved them off the steel.  This involved leveling the floor frames, slotting them for 1x6's and then laminating up a stack of 6 on each side.  We then laid a 6x6 over the top of each of the 4 runners, and screwed a plywood scab to the sides.  That got capped off with an angle iron corner, that lined up perfectly with the top of the existing steel engine bedding.  (Our friend Danny kicked in a few pieces of angle iron so the pipe rollers had something smooth to roll on.  Thanks! )

We cut the engines loose, hoisted them in the air, and used a lever block to scoot them forward until they hung over onto the runners.  Once the pipe rollers started taking load, we were home free.  From there it was 5 foot pinch bars.  We made the runners dead level, and crossed strings to make sure the engines wouldn't make any drastic moves due to gravity.

This involved about a 2 week buildup, of making sure everything would go smoothly and deciding on the final plan of how the engine stringers were to be made and stitched together....  Seeing as the engines are now sitting, on the forward half of the engine stringers.... the 6X6's were set so we could work under them and tie the two pieces together.

Sleepless nights... 

After the move was over, a thousand pounds of steel came out of her, slowly.  We used side cut off wheels and metal cutting sawzalls, as oil soaked oak laid directly against the steel bedding.  This was a somewhat slow process, but a few days work rendered it a pile in the back of my pickup truck...  No torches to burn the boat down either!

After the steel was out, we removed the old floors and frames and cut the fasteners flush to the planks and started laying in strips of 3/16th thick douglass fir, 2 1/8th inches wide.  We've got epoxy laminating strip frames in place down to an art form.  It is a somewhat tedius process making the strips, as they need to be 14 feet long, and un-tapered.

Once the strips were laid, we began making more floor frames and floor timbers.  They don't grow trees the required 16 inches, by 2 1/8th wide any more.  So we laminated the floor frames too. 
We've got a novel way of doing it now, that involves a 3/4 plywood scab wrapped in mylar packing tape.  Once the pieces are buttered up with epoxy, we put the big bar clamps on the board...  Once they are tight, we screw the 3/4 plywood scabs to the face and that pulls all the pieces flush to the scab.  Works like magic...  No clamping cauls required, and no funny business with slipping clamps.  It also means that we can make quite a few at one time, as it no longer requires using the saw table top as a reference for a flat surface.

We are rebuilding the engine bedding out of Douglass fir, laminating it up as is done in the new Carolina sport fishing boats.  We can move at a quicker pace, without having to call in much outside labor.  The engine bedding will be built up, and then wrapped with 1/2 inch plywood, fiberglassed and painted before the engines move aft.

We'll also be moving the fuel tanks up ahead of the engines, as we noticed the shift in trim was fairly significant just moving the engines ahead 8 feet...  We liked the change, so bringing the tanks forward will trim the boat out flatter and make achieving level cabinetry in the top cabin a lot easier to compensate for fuel load!